Aloha from Sicily!

Christmas Eve 2008

2009-04-24T07:16:00.000-07:00

Christmas Eve on Mt. Etna with the people I love!

Shore View

2009-04-13T15:10:00.000-07:00

The island of Sicily teaches many secrets and truths. Here's one.

No matter what anyone tells you, life can go in many directions. There is no one way sign.

No matter how hopeless it feels, we're still making wishes. And when one light flickers out(I accidentally turned off someone's prayer light while trying to ignite my own! Egads.), three more flicker on.

It's okay to walk on. Don't be frightened of abandoned suitcases. They're rarely ever bombs.

The water is never as calm as it appears.

And in the struggle between the rock and the river, the river wins as it carves out channels and forges a path where there was none before.

And in the end, all that matters are the many friends who held your hand along the way.

Istanbul

2009-04-13T13:11:00.000-07:00

I guess you could say that Istanbul was our farewell tour in Europe. My travels on this part of the world have included Denmark, France, England, Italy, Malta, Morocco, Hungary, Austria, Germany and now Turkey. As a college student backpacking thru Europe, never in my wildest dreams would I have thought I'd find myself living in Europe for three and a half years.

Even as charming as Europe will always be to me, I can feel the tug of the tropics at my heart. And I noticed my own energy of change reflecting back in my photos. The things that once charmed me in every city no longer do - the big bling churches or the mile-long museums.

What captivates me now are simpler moments like a cat swaggering through a bustling marketplace. A bird playing in the rain. An amusing sign. Or pet food sold in barrels.

Funny how things change.

Istanbul

2009-04-13T13:10:00.000-07:00

Istanbul

2009-04-13T13:08:00.000-07:00

An ancient underground water reservoir from around 500 AD. Discovered in the mid '50s when an archaeologist noticed that locals were dropping buckets through holes in the ground and catching fish. The site was then excavated. Beautifully lit and remarkable acoustics. One of my favorite places in Europe.

Istanbul

2009-04-13T13:06:00.000-07:00

Istanbul - Aya Sofia

2009-04-13T13:05:00.000-07:00

Stepping in to Aya Sofia felt just like coming home at long last. Like finding a precious love from a lifetime you no longer remember.

Istanbul

2009-04-13T12:58:00.000-07:00

Happy 41st Birthday Brother...Wherever you are, I haven't forgotten.

2009-03-16T13:20:00.000-07:00

My Morocco!

2009-03-08T07:27:00.000-07:00

We admit it. We're virgins! This was our first trip to Africa, first Muslim country and first third world country.

We were advised to go with a tour group. But tour group travel is annoying. So we tried to talk friends in to going with us. No luck. So we went on our own.

We'd done Munich, Paris, Rome, Amsterdam and much of western Europe and we're craving something more exotic where the dollar is worth something.

We quickly learned to never judge a Muslim unless you've experienced a Muslim country. Moroccans were kind, honest, gentle and never once ripped us off. On the other hand, we could talk your ear off on how many times Romans tried to rip us off not a mile from the Vatican.

It's true what everyone says. Casablanca's an armpit. But we had great experiences there anyway. We had our first traditional hammam experience. About 2 and half hours (for $30) we were boiled, scrubbed in black soap, wet massaged, steamed, scoured, wrapped in bonafida sea sludge and bossed around while naked by big, burly Moroccan women. It's very humbling to be perched on a marble stoop in a steam room naked while they wash your hair and dump buckets of hot water over your head. We were thoroughly beat up and loved every moment of it!

Hawaii haunts us everywhere we go!

My Morocco!

2009-03-08T07:21:00.000-07:00

The mosque in Casablanca.

The Novotel was awesome and dirt cheap!

We stayed in Casablanca for just a day and took the train to Marrakech.

My Morocco!

2009-03-08T05:22:00.000-07:00

The Casablanca-to-Marrakech train system works beautifully. In my imagination on overdrive I expected to be packed into a cargo car with farmers and goats. Instead, it was safe, clean and efficient with no real difference between first and second class except for price.

The terracotta-colored countryside was impressive. And funny to watch donkeys and oxen trotting down Morocco's new, modern highways....

After the three-hour train ride to Marrakech, we were awestruck during the drive from the train station to the hotel. There were wide-paved streets lined with palms, and Vegas style hotels. After dingy Casablanca and the cobblestone streets of Sicily, we felt a surge of joy at something American-esque...

...that fled quickly when then the luxury van stopped and deposited us at what looked like a beat down village entrance - a narrow dusty alleyway with chickens on carts and donkeys standing about. Our luggage was placed in a homemade wooden wheel barrow and we were instructed to follow the toothless Moroccan - and keep up! - as he hustled his way through a labyrinth of musty and narrow passages and alleys, merchants and mayhem.

We were practically jogging to keep up with the toothless man with the wheelbarrow.

At this point, Rob was about to FREAK.

I didn't know what to be more scared of - where we were being led to or what Rob would do when we got there. Everyone looked like Bin Laden's brother, and I tried to assure him this was going to be fine.

After what seemed like an eternity in the maze of corridors, we stopped in front of a totally spooky doorway that looked like it was built for a short ogre or a really tall dwarf....and out pops a Frenchman welcoming us to the Riad Magellan. Through the doorway was a breathtaking home - complete with a trickling courtyard fountain full of floating rose petals.

We had arrived!

My Morocco!

2009-03-08T05:14:00.000-07:00

I loved worming our way through the dusty streets of Marrakech - being amongst the donkeys and the ladies dressed in their beautiful burkas. Every which way you turn there's something stunning to see - it's a city full of hope, desperation, ancient charm, peaceful resignation...and most of all hard, hard work.

My Morocco!

2009-03-08T04:50:00.000-07:00

In Marrakech, we stayed in a traditional riad - a wealthy Moroccan home with an open courtyard in the center that was converted to a bed and breakfast, owned by a Frenchman. We picked it because we wanted to be close to the action and to have a more authentic experience. Authentic included an incredibly uncomfortable bed, an overpriced massage and meal.

All the guests were abuzz about who'd be America's next president. This was top of every foreigner's mind at the hotel. One Canadian remarked - "We're in the midst of an election too and none of us give a damn who Canada's president will be. We just care about who will be the US President."

We stayed out of the political chatter, and just enjoyed the Moroccan mint tea.

We had a cooking lesson with the house cook who trained us how to make chicken tagine and Moroccan vegetables. She didn't speak any English and we didn't speak any French. But we watched wide-eyed and learned anyway!

We hired a fabulous tour guide for the day through our place and he was very generous in introducing us to the Muslim way of life and opened the door and our eyes to the real Marrakech.

My Morocco!

2009-03-08T04:42:00.000-07:00

Wherever we ate, cats were sure to be there. Our guide had said that cats are sacred in Muslim culture.

Here's one who joined us at our table for lunch!

Another restaurant kitty just hopped up next to Rob and snuggled down with his backpack while we ate...

His tableside friend sat at my feet...

When food looks this good, no wonder the kitties want to be your friend!

My Morocco!

2009-03-08T04:20:00.000-07:00

Marrakesh is a shopping paradise. The most beautiful handmade art, objects, gorgeous textiles, jewelry. I'd found heaven for sale. And my friend Brandon had said pack your suitcase full of anything American to use as barter -toothpaste, toothbrushes, candy bars, American t-shirts from a thrift store.

Fortunately all the Halloween candy was on sale here so we filled our suitcases with chocolate and geared ourselves for Olympic-level Barter & Haggling.

With all shops, there's a tourist price and a price they give to those they respect (about 30 to 50 percent less). We fought tooth and nail for the respectable price and always closed the sale with a handful of candy bars and a warm smile.

My Morocco!

2009-03-08T04:05:00.000-07:00

It's a long day when you are constantly being courted, hustled and hollered at by merchants trying to get you in to their shop. We were having a blast but we were both weary. Rob was in a shop and I was barely standing - waiting outside.

And this tiny little shop owner - who caught my eye - because he was so quiet in the mayhem of the marketplace - offered me his stool. My feet were throbbing.

I was so exhausted I just dropped my head and just stared at the dirt for several minutes. And was so grateful that this little man didn't say a word to me, and was just comfortable with our silence.

I ended up purchasing one of his handcarved bowls, which was stunning! He was so kind and so talented, I would have bought 20 if I had enough luggage space to bring them home.

The man buried behind all these baskets was so nice to us. He fixed my broken straw basket that I had gotten in Romania within minutes - his fingers flying. He charged nothing. So we bought a basket from him in thanks.

The poverty in Morocco is intense. It just kills you that these amazingly talented and hardworking artisans have to fight so hard to live. It almost made me feel as if I don't deserve my life - I haven't earned it as they have.

My Morocco!

2009-03-08T03:54:00.000-07:00

These Moroccans are so incredibly talented, hard working and honest people - who still create, make and sell the ancient way. They are so close to their products - their craft is so personal - it's part of their imagination, their spirit.

In the silk souk, we watched silk be made. What I most love about our European (and now African) experience, is that there's something so intimate about buying goods from the person who makes the items. To meet the man who dyes the silk, and selects the colors, and sells his craft - shopping has never been so intimate as what we experienced in Marrakech.

My Morocco!

2009-03-08T03:50:00.000-07:00

My Morocco!

2009-03-08T03:46:00.000-07:00

Watching carpets be made was fascinating! Never had a huge respect for what's under foot until we watched the rug making process, the colors, the designs. It was enlightening.

My Morocco!

2009-03-08T03:35:00.000-07:00

I am terrified of snakes. Rob, on the other hand, let himself be immediately seduced by snake charmers. He paid them well for the opportunity to have a snake tail up his nose and tipped the charmer with a candy bar too.

I refused to touch him until he showered.

Of course, when they all realized we have American candy bars the whole tribe of charmers were after me. You can imagine how fast I can run away from a gaggle of snake charmers....dashing through the square like a crazy person.

My Morocco!

2009-03-08T03:28:00.000-07:00

When our guide asked us what we wanted to see in Marrakech, we said we wanted to see the leather made. He tried to talk us out of it because of the distance and the district. We insisted and hoofed our way to the poorest sector of Marrakech to watch leather be made.

It nearly brought me to tears to see what a complicated and long process leather making is. And to see how hard these men labor for so little. As we stood there watching these men work, it dawned on me that I've never truly had a hard day at work in my life.

And it might be wise to think twice before I ever complain about anything in my little cushy work day ever again.

My Morocco!

2009-03-08T03:23:00.000-07:00

Do you see the sleeping kitty?

After this hugely laborious leather making process, guess how much these hardworking guys can sell a skin for? $3 USD.

My Morocco!

2009-03-08T03:12:00.000-07:00

Spices, herbs and natural plant-based remedies are all sold in the same places. Our tour guide made a stop at this pharmacy for an introduction to Moroccan remedies and of course, buy their bullshit.

They put us in a private room. Invite you to try a sample of their herbal rub as administered by one of their clinicians. You'd say yes. They'd rub it on your shoulders and then say 3 euro please.

There were a throng of fellow sucker tourists there. It was really funny. We just smiled. Bought a few of their potions and lotions. And totally felt raped and ridiculous afterwards.

I gently scolded our private guide for throwing us to the wolves.

We preferred to buy our spices from the street vendors.

My Morocco!

2009-03-08T03:06:00.000-07:00

Our bed and breakfast recommended this restaurant - I think it was called Marrakech. It was a short walk through the main square. One of the best meals of our lives - Moroccan food is the sexiest food on the planet. It's savory, sweet, spiced and sultry.

Rob could care less about food. Give him a bowl of cereal and a peanut butter sandwich and he's happy as a sultan with his harem.

I've never seen him enjoy food like Moroccan food - almond honey chicken, bastilla, couscous with tagine chicken - and he was in nirvana.

We stopped in the main square on the way back to our riad to watch some local entertainment.

My Morocco!

2009-03-08T01:56:00.000-08:00

At night the main square in Marrakech transforms in to this vast open air kitchen. The air is filled with the smell of barbecue and cumin. The tents and benches seem to have arrived out of nowhere and there's an endless sea of phenomenal food.

Men are calling to the tourists trying them to get them seated at their kitchen's table. It was crazy like the fish market in Catania. Cats running about. Little children trying to steal french fries off our plates. It was wild.

By the end of the night we were so full we could barely move. But we still had the presence of mind to snatch all the leftover bread and stuff it with anything left on our plates, and we gave it to a little boy as we left.

My Morocco!

2009-01-05T15:12:00.000-08:00

After the mayhem of Marrakech, we headed to the outskirts to get away from the donkeys and dust. We stayed in a peaceful apartment resort.

We hired a cab to take us to the nearby grocery store, which is a major favorite free tour I love to do in every city we go to. We bought supplies for a few days and enjoyed making Moroccan food with all the spices we'd gathered in Marrakech.

This was the most awesome end to our vacation and cost next to nothing. We highly recommend the $120 a nite Palmeraie Resort with its recessed terra cotta ceilings, and luxurious beds and marbled bathroom - so plush! We stayed for three nights.

My Morocco!

2009-01-05T15:01:00.000-08:00

Here's the furry greeting committee - Little kitty stationed at our resort.

So we took the free shuttle to the upscale resort on the other side of the tracks! Hawaii quality gorgeous! Reminded me of Wailea. Bravo Morocco!

Right outside our apartment was an infinity pool. Too cold for Rob but irresistible for me!

Ciao Morocco

2009-01-05T14:58:00.000-08:00

I captured our last sunset in Morocco as we headed back to Casablanca for the red eye home. I can't wait to return to Morocco. I felt so at home in this strange, exotic and magical place.

Sicilian Olive Oil - No Ka Oi!

2008-12-14T14:25:00.000-08:00

With this being our last olive season in Sicily, we were determined to find the best olive oil on the island. All local connections pointed towards Ragalna, a small farming town on Etna about half an hour from our villa.

After three years in Sicily, olive oil is as much a part of our life as each other!

We connected with a Ragalna farmer who comes to our hometown of Nicolosi to press his best! And so we arranged to sample his finest and experience the process!

Here he is standing with his hand picked olives.

Only 20 percent of the olives becomes liquid gold. The rest is discarded. So you can imagine how many olives, and how much toil it takes to make just a liter.

Sicilia Olive Oil - No Ka Oi!

2008-12-14T14:20:00.000-08:00

This is more than just a cool shadow of the group. If you click on it, you can see up close that it's a huge pile of olive debris - all that's discarded post-press. Nearly 80% of every single little olive!

Here's the gang out of the shadows.

The good stuff is made to a paste and hand spread over these huge circular palates for pressing.

And here's what happens next. Cold pressed, fresh olive oil. If you received a bottle of this, this is where it was born!

Sicilian Olive Oil - No Ka Oi!

2008-12-14T14:18:00.000-08:00

The process took half a day as we waited patiently, salivating, and reveling in the fact that this olificio and beautiful place is just 5 minutes from our house and we never knew it was there!

So we entertained ourselves by enjoying the scenery. Can you find the dog from the goats?

...And of course, we passed the time sampling some novello vino. The grape harvest wraps up in November and for three months, the featured beverage of Sicily is the fresh, new wine - that's unfermented and without any preservatives.

And here is the final product, creamy, buttery, delicious olive oil - a phenomenal extra virgin olive oil from one of the country's most superior olive oil producing regions. We prefer to eat it fresh with a little bit of salt, red pepper flakes and a pinch of fresh flat-leaf parsley. And some fresh baked bread from the local bakery to mop it up. Our favorite heavenly treat! Or drizzle it over your ragu or fresh tomato sauce before serving! Or in salad dressings. Or sprinkled over fresh sliced tomatoes. You name it.

37 & Fabulous!

2008-12-14T14:01:00.000-08:00

Some people dread getting older but for me, but besides being fatter with less hair and sexyness than in my 20s, I have never been happier. Age sheds so much of what doesn't matter - mostly things that relate to ego and fear.

With age, once clouded priorities become crystal clear. The concept of long term goals becomes exciting! And the joy of the moment and potential for the future have never mattered more.

This birthday we learned that the two year extension in Sicily has been scaled back to just a handful of months. So we have learned to count our blessings by the number of friends we love. And by the moments we share.

Christine suggested a north Etna hike through the forest for my birthday with our friend Ray as a guide.

Here's the gang deep in a cave!

37 & Fabulous!

2008-12-14T13:57:00.000-08:00

The scenic drive, the damp scents of pine in the crisp fall air, and the joy of the hanai family that we've made made this such a perfect birthday!

My three favorite thoughts this birthday as I turn 37 are these.

Stop to smile for someone.

Breathe deeply.

37 and Joyful!

2008-12-14T13:52:00.000-08:00

And take the time to look around you!

I love this photos of nature waxing and waning. It was the perfect analogy for my birthday and the old giving way to new in perfect balance.

Papa Joe Gets Older than Dirt!

2008-12-12T11:01:00.001-08:00

We met Joe and Sue last spring when they arrived and were sponsored to the island by our friends The Burtons. Joe and Sue immediately became our hanai family. When Sue traveled home for a visit, she asked us to ensure that Joe had a nice birthday so we coordinated a little sha-bang to wish the old man a good one.

We learned that old men act different when their wife ain't around.

Papa Joe Gets Older than Dirt!

2008-12-12T10:58:00.000-08:00

We had this fabulous Sicilian seafood lunch at the port.

And after a 3-hour lunch we realized we were just getting started. So we moved the party to Tony's house in Motta. Pat and I went for a swim in his pool! And the gang played poker, and we stayed long enough to get hungry again and Meg made lasagna....

...and little Mikey behaved like the stinker rock star he's gonna be some day! It was a birthday to remember that's for sure!

PetWalk 2008

2008-11-12T09:54:00.000-08:00

One of my favorite charity events is PetWalk in Hawaii! Altho, I must say it's much more joyful to admire the event from Sicily than to be in Hawaii producing it! This photo from this event is just too cute not to share.

Summer Fun with Friends!

2008-10-05T12:13:00.000-07:00

It's already October and I'm just getting around to organizing my summer memories. It went so fast. What made this summer even more special was that it was my last where I was completely foot loose and fancy free.

I went from part-time freelance consultant at my leisure. To two jobs - by day as MWR marketing director. Only to get home, take off my shoes and head for my virtual office, where I'm working nearly full-time again. Funny how both engines kicked into full gear about the same time. And both give me a tremendous amount of energy and passion in such different ways!

Before I update you on our summer adventures. Wanted you to meet some new friends we made. This is Del and Medy and they live down the street. Medy walks the dogs since I'm not home by day and they love her so much. And I come home from work and find food in my refrigerator like homemade manapua...and that just gets my tail wagging too! We love having these two in our lives.

This summer we headed back to Sciacca for the Menfi wine festival for the 4th of July weekend. It was so good to see Steve in Sciacca. It was our first weekend trip with Pat. Amy and Chad went to!

Each summer (just like each year) is better than the last. And it makes me wild with joy to think about what's ahead because our summer was just so wonderful and fun. This time in our life is so amazing.

Here I am with Mary, my landlord and friend. And we talked her into giving us a scaciatta cooking lesson, which is a typical Sicilian dish often seen at tavola caldas. It's like calzone but better.

Summer Fun with Friends!

2008-10-05T12:07:00.000-07:00

Sue and Medy go knife to knife in the kitchen over scaciatta!

The finished product was heavenly!

Summer Fun with Friends!

2008-10-05T12:02:00.000-07:00

We hosted another cooking night at our house with the gang. And Sue taught Rob how to make eggplant parmesan, which is one of his favorite dishes.

Summer Fun with Friends!

2008-10-05T11:50:00.000-07:00

Miranda taught Pat and me how to make sushi. I miss Genki Sushi so bad it hurts!

Rob finished his University of Maryland Italian 101 course.

Pat fed us all in style one hot summer nite!

And Rob and I celebrated my adoption day (my second birthday!) with Vietnamese lemongrass porkchops, jasmine rice and Vietnamese spring rolls. With no local Vietnamese restaurant to enjoy, we had to learn to make my favorite dish myself. I found lemongrass in Chinatown in Amsterdam and schlepped it all the way home to Sicily. It's one of my favorite spices.

Summer Moonlight Lava Chase

2008-10-05T11:48:00.000-07:00

While Rob was in Hawaii, Matt and Christine took me on a night hike. By the full moon, we hit the donkey trail on Etna and scaled the black sand craters to see the lava flow up close.

My camera did not do the lava justice but it's a memory I'll never forget.

Summer Moonlight Lava Chase

2008-10-05T11:37:00.000-07:00

Ribs with Thomas

2008-10-05T11:29:00.000-07:00

Our friends Thomas, Joe and Matt -- all found themselves wife-less in Sicily on summer day. So without their better halves to keep their smiles perked and bellies full of some decent food, we decided to have a barbecue at the rib master's house.

We brought all the food, and Thomas fired up the grill.

And we all enjoyed a hot summer day together.

Summer Fun with Friends!

2008-10-05T10:58:00.000-07:00

Damn good fun in Amsterdam!

2008-10-05T09:05:00.000-07:00

We geared up for summer with five days in Amsterdam with five friends!

I'd been before but not like this! I fell in love with the city on the water all over again! Amsterdam has the same vibe as San Francisco - progressive, diverse, cosmpolitan and free!

Damn good fun in Amsterdam!

2008-10-05T09:03:00.000-07:00

Chris is allergic to shrimp but we found plenty of great things to eat in Amsterdam. It was so ono-licious to be somewhere that appreciates the many wonderful cuisines of the world! We ate Thai curry, sushi, pancakes, real pub food and even Argentinian steaks. What a delight!!!

Damn good fun in Amsterdam!

2008-10-05T09:02:00.000-07:00

Our apartment in the Cat Museum was just around the corner from the flower market, where we bought bags and bags of bulbs!

Our

Damn good fun in Amsterdam!

2008-10-05T08:59:00.000-07:00

I love wax museums. They're a whole 'nother world of creepy good fun!

Damn good fun in Amsterdam!

2008-10-05T08:56:00.000-07:00

Damn good fun in Amsterdam!

2008-10-05T08:51:00.000-07:00

Some nights we'd come home early and cook up some of the fun things we'd find in the local grocery in Amsterdam. And spend the evening hanging out the window watching the world go by!

Our apartment had serious mosquitos and Rob's got the bites to prove it.

Damn good fun in Amsterdam!

2008-10-05T08:48:00.000-07:00

Indian curry for dinner anyone?

Damn good fun in Amsterdam!

2008-10-05T08:40:00.000-07:00

Rob dares to go through the red door! It's forbidden to take photos of the working girls in the windows, who charge about 50 euro for 15 minutes. But we enjoyed our 2 hour walking tour of the red light district.

How much is that condom in the window? These cute novelty condom figurines are sold by a nonprofit to raise awareness about safe sex. We nabbed a few - one of a kitty and puppy. They were so cute!

Damn good fun in Amsterdam!

2008-10-05T08:37:00.000-07:00

Need I say anything at all? I leave that to your imagination.

Damn good fun in Amsterdam!

2008-10-05T08:34:00.000-07:00

Maybe your imagination won't help you on this one. These were created to prevent gentleman from peeing in the corner. That's right. Piss off!

Damn good fun in Amsterdam!

2008-10-05T08:30:00.000-07:00

Damn good fun in Amsterdam!

2008-10-05T08:24:00.000-07:00

Alcantara Gorge

2008-07-14T08:44:00.000-07:00

The longer we live here, the more Sicily delights us. Here's one of my favorite places. It's high energy refreshment on this island that seems so tired in summer's desert dry and dusty landscape.

Alcantara gorge is green and lush with trees - outrageously beautiful rock formations and icy cold water rapids. The place just hums with nature's invigorating energy.

It amazes me that in all our many visits to the Taormina area that we had never found our way to this hidden treasure.

Alcantara Gorge

2008-07-14T08:38:00.000-07:00

Volleyball - Italian Style!

2008-06-06T06:58:00.000-07:00

This weekend we set out for Kastalia, a sports resort just south of Ragusa in Sicily. We traveled with Rob's volleyball team for a wonderfully authentic, family weekend a la Siciliano!

Three years in Sicily and more often than not, it still feels like we're visiting a culture. Without a doubt this weekend...as the only Americans on property, immersed in a family weekend getaway completely surrounded by all Sicilians, we felt the subtle shift that comes from being a guest in a culture to being a part of it.

So here's the coveted holy grail of the weekend surrounded by Hawaii's state flower - the hibiscus!

Volleyball - Italian Style!

2008-06-06T06:47:00.000-07:00

Rob vows that the team shall drink from the cup of victory!!!!

Now tell me does this look to you like a bunch of champion kick ass volleyball players? Or just a gaggle of volleyball lovin' family and friends?

We shall find out before the weekend is over.

Volleyball - Italian Style!

2008-06-06T06:45:00.001-07:00

Summer is nearly here and our first stop was to the pool. Rob and I are water lovers to da max! We couldn't get in that olympic size pool fast enough.

It still amazes me how we're exactly half way around the world from home and yet Hawaii always seems to find me! Check out these kona tiki surf shorts. We also saw a player wearing an Hawaii Pacific University shirt and a Hawaii t-shirt. Hawaii wear is definitely the rage this season in Sicily. We're seeing fewer speedos and more board shorts. Thank God!

Volleyball - Italian Style!

2008-06-06T06:39:00.000-07:00

Love watching the Italian boys at play!

Volleyball - Italian Style!

2008-06-06T06:32:00.001-07:00

A little peace and inspiration is great prep for a volleyball game. So we spent the morning at the sea. Tourist season hasn't yet begun in Sicily so the shores were still brimming of shells! I walked the beach, waded out in to the water, and collected shells while Rob pummeled through his sudoku.

Volleyball - Italian Style!

2008-06-06T06:29:00.000-07:00

After we had our fill of leisure, it was time for Rob to shift in to bull dog mode!

Game on!

Volleyball - Italian Style!

2008-06-06T06:25:00.000-07:00

Let the games begin!

Volleyball - Italian Style!

2008-06-06T06:18:00.001-07:00

The competition showed up with nuns in tow. Man, talk about playing the intimidation card! They'd wander out on court. Scowl in the direction of our team. and hung out by the score keeper....

We had no nuns with us. Just Rob,the token American giant. He's the only American on a team in the league.

For Sicily's community league playoffs that included volleyball, soccer and basketball...I'd guess there were at least 5,000 in attendance.

Volleyball - Italian Style!

2008-06-06T06:06:00.000-07:00

Here's the Motta boys team and their coach! Every time Rob would nail the ball the boys would chant "Ba Boom!"

Volleyball Italian Style

2008-06-06T05:59:00.000-07:00

In one weekend this community league from Motta with players from age 16 to 45 rose through the ranks and become rock stars! That's right...They WON!

Volleyball Champions

2008-06-06T05:27:00.000-07:00

Not only did Motta win all its matches. It was the only Catania volleyball team in the whole league to rank first place in any division!

I've dubbed Elsa, Julia and Martina the Sicilian spice girls. And do these girls know how to work it...whether it's pummeling the ball on court, dancing in their bikinis by the pool, or posing like rockstars for the camera!

Romania: The Hunt for Blood!

2008-06-05T16:32:00.000-07:00

My name is Jacque LeBlanc. And I am a vampire.

As soon as the sunset, we embarked on our journey to Romania in search of the father land.

I slept by day on the bus under the caring hands of my fledglings.

I slept some more under the watchful eye of my creator Dracula aka Vlad the Impaler of Romania, a celebrated prince who united the country by scaring the blood out of his enemies with his gruesome impaling tactics.

Before I tell you our story...I must tell you...I am a very sleepy vampire.

Romania: In Hunt of Blood!

2008-06-05T16:22:00.000-07:00

Why are we in Romania? Because all vacationing vampires must make the pilgrimage to the fatherland. And American vampires on a budget, must flee to eastern europe to evade the euro, which has drained all the life force from the dollar.

The first thing any vampire does when traveling is to find a suitable and safe lair to sleep during daylight. While budget friendly, camping does not provide sufficient protection from sunlight and leaves you vulnerable to attacks from other vampires.

This Dracula Resort provided suitable accommodations for our coven.

Our coffin came equipped with a private lanai.

Romania: The Hunt for Blood!

2008-06-05T16:19:00.000-07:00

All good vampires like to fly across rooftops. Here we are in the air skirting the skyscape of Brasov.

Romania: The Hunt for Blood!

2008-06-05T16:10:00.000-07:00

All good vampires find refuge and comfort in creepy castles.

Romania: The Hunt for Blood!

2008-06-05T16:08:00.000-07:00

We envy those that can die as we are cursed to roam the earth for eternity.

We could hear hearts pounding and smell the sweat of these grave diggers. It inspired in us a thirst.

Romania: The Hunt for Blood!

2008-06-05T16:03:00.000-07:00

For miles, we hunted in hot pursuit of the perfect victims.

Too young...not large enough for a suitable meal for the coven.

Too old and grisly...not fresh enough for a feast.

Romania: The Hunt for Blood!

2008-06-05T15:57:00.001-07:00

We found our way to the birth home of Vlad the Impaler for a suitable meal - mummified dead meat drenched in blood. Well...at least we pretended our cabbage rolls were such.

Our thirst for blood raged on...The coven agreed that Chinese people would serve as the perfect dessert. There are no Chinese people in Romania. So we settled for egg rolls and chop suey in the comfort of our coffin.

We found our way to this lair for traditional Romania fare. We liked it so much we fed there twice...

Romania: In Search of Vampires!

2008-06-05T15:54:00.000-07:00

We kept a low profile by feeding on gypsies.

Romania: In Hunt of Blood!

2008-06-05T15:22:00.000-07:00

I must tell you that vampires do not like rain. Our broken umbrellas buckled beneath the ominpresent rain of Romania.

We found comfort amongst the dogs from hell.

And here we are in perfect disguise as American tourists in Romania!

Just Married!

2008-05-08T08:30:00.000-07:00

Jack and Janet went off to Kona to have a little fun! They came back married. Just goes to show that true love is worth the wait..as it's Janet's first and foreva marriage.

Last year April Janet and I sat down after work and made a list of all the qualities she wanted in a guy...at the top of the list?....must love dogs...and considering her rambunctious tribe of pets including pitbulls, a mangled love bird that survived a cat attack and a cat...that was a tall order!

She's one woman who knows how to use her magic that's for sure because by all accounts, Jack's been getting rave reviews and met all the criteria. And trust me..I've been asking folks!

At long last Janet's dad walks her down the aisle --- or thru the hibiscus bushes...whatever...I had dinner with her family last year. What a bunch of funny people. Now I know where she gets her sense of humor.

So what kind of friend is Janet? Janet's the kind of superior friend that when I asked her to send some aloha to Rob whose in Hawaii for cataracts surgery...She immediately wrote him...demanded he meet them for pau hana cocktails..and then insisted on picking him up after his surgery despite the fact that the hospital is two blocks from where he's staying. Never mind she had to take off work and drive an hour to get him. Despite his insistence to take a cab for the two minute drive! She's as stubborn as a coconut is hard with more aloha than the Pacific is deep.

I miss Hawaii and its people! I especially miss Janet. But Jack and Janet will be in Sicily and June, and we'll be there to meet their cruise ship with an armful of hugs, and a basketful of wine and cheese!

Easter is....

2008-03-25T05:44:00.000-07:00

...a time to let your hair down!

...a time to pig out with a honey-glazed ham and good friends!

....a time to share with new friends!

...and most of all, a time to cut loose a bit and have a drink or two!

Good Friday in Enna!

2008-03-25T04:02:00.000-07:00

This statue depicts the rebirth and return of Persephone, marking the beginning of Spring. The message was fitting considering we arrived to Enna on March 22, the day after the first day of Spring 2008.

Enna is considered the mythological location where Perspehone was abducted by Pluto to live in the underworld for a portion of the year.

Enna is smack dab in the center of Sicily, about 2 hours drive from home and is a walled, hilltop city - which means it's got all the characteristics of my favorite urban design!

On the left are new arrivals to Sicily Joe and Sue of Philadelphia, along with our friends and their "sponsors" Thomas and Kelly. At Sigonella, they call it 'sponsoring' where you serve as their temporary guardian to help them assimilate into their new life. But often times, it's just typical Hawaiian style hanai ohana. (adopted family).

Good Friday in Enna!

2008-03-25T03:57:00.000-07:00

The Lenten season was always a big deal growing up. As little kids we tithed, gave up a favorite food, ate pancakes for supper, collected money for Unicef, got new clothes, and honored Ash Wed, Good Friday and Easter. My parents are devout Episcopalians and I attended an Episcopalian girls school.

So despite my lack of belonging to a singular faith as an adult, I am culturally Christian and the idea of experiencing Sicily's most revered Good Friday procession captured my imagination and heart!

The hooded head symbolizes mourning.

Good Friday in Enna!

2008-03-25T03:54:00.000-07:00

The rites of Holy Week date from the Spanish domination of the 15th to 17th centuries when the various fraternities of artisans and artists were authorized to form religious organizations.

They were given precise rules and privileges from the Spanish rulers to look after the sick, poor and unfortunate.

Today, 15 of the original 34 confraternites still exist and animate Holy Week in Enna. The members are no longer miners or farmers, but lawyers, doctors etc. and only, only men.

Good Friday sees all 2000 members of the confraternties march in complete silence and sadness back to the cathedral through nearly all the streets of Enna.

Good Friday in Enna!

2008-03-25T03:48:00.000-07:00

The townsfolk take this procession very seriously. After all, in what other context would you dress your little girl as a nun?

And they did not hesitate to tell giggling Americans to somber up and shut up. Tonite, the cobblestone streets of Enna were simply an outdoor extension of a church aisle.

Good Friday in Enna!

2008-03-25T03:43:00.000-07:00

Lily white Jesus in a glass enclosed, gilded coffin seems so melodramatic and completely unorganic to me. But this works for Sicily's Catholics. Here he is in church awaiting to be carried through the town.

Now I counted. And it required 80 men to hoist and schlep this down the streets. If you look closely, you can see the cloth covered heads below the coffin in a swaying step procession.

Jesus is followed by the Madonna. Here you can better see all the many heads of those carrying her.I don't think it's an exaggeration to say that Sicilians are slightly obsessed with Mary. Joseph, the father that raised him, gets no props. It's all about the Virgin Mother.

Good Friday in Enna!

2008-03-25T03:41:00.000-07:00

Experiencing a church this beautiful, almost makes me want to worship in one again. Hmmmm??? Nah!

Good Friday in Enna!

2008-03-25T03:37:00.000-07:00

I like how this book I'm reading sums up a view on Christianity that I share...

"And while I do reserve to right to ask myself in certain trying situations what indeed He would do, I can't swallow that one fixed rule of Christianity insisting that Christ is the only path to God. Strictly speaking then, I cannot call myself a Christian. Since traditionally, I have responded to the transcendent mystics of all religions."

We have buddhas in our home. I've had my sacred Guan Yin for years! I just think growing up in a place like Hawaii where it's truly a melting pot culturally and spiritually, it's impossible to wed one line of faith. Its tradition in Hawaii to have a new house and office blessed. In one of the last places I worked, we had a Shinto blessing, a Hawaiian blessing and a New Age blessing!

Yet another reason why I feel like a funny colored duck in a really foreign pond. This isn't just a one-religion town. It's a one religion country!

Castelmola!

2008-03-24T07:09:00.000-07:00

Just a few minutes drive above Taormina is Castelmola, a quaint charming little town of only 1200 residents.

I think the views are even more spectacular here than Taormina. Above the church rooftops, I could see Etna looking like another utopia in the distance.

Castelmola!

2008-03-24T07:03:00.000-07:00

Castelmola!

2008-03-24T07:01:00.000-07:00

Castelmola - Thru Doors & Windows!

2008-03-24T06:56:00.000-07:00

Most of the portals to homes in Hawaii are postively non-descript. Windows and doorways in Italy are all about character and charm and color!

Alice, our feng shui guru, tells us that how you frame your doorway sets the mood for all those who enter your hale.

Castelmola - Thru Doors & Windows!

2008-03-24T06:41:00.000-07:00

Castelmola!

2008-03-24T06:39:00.000-07:00

When Turrisi returned to Castelmola after WW2, he opened a quirky little shop of novelty odds and ends from hand-crafted chairs to puppets to lemonade. Times were rough and the almond wine maker sometimes waited half a year to get just one bottle to sell his wine in.

Today the shop is now a bar and Turrisi's son still sells his dad's signature wine and kept his father's tradition of a guest book for visitors to sign. But he has refocused the family's nutty little business.

Now put your hand on this penis...I mean door handle...and come on in!

Here's more about Castelmola's famous landmark attraction - http://www.turrisibar.it/history.htm

Now, the Italian penis is quite sacred in these parts of the world, according to an article Lisa Balboni recently sent me. In fact, Italy has passed "don't touch" legislation to deter (mostly) men from grabbing their crotch. While such gestures were once made to ward off bad luck, it's now considered indecent.

While this seriously offends my sense of civil liberties that government should tell me what I can pick, grab, scratch on my own body, it's just another nutty, unenforceable Italian law. Madonna, Michael, McJagger beware!

Castelmola

2008-03-24T06:36:00.001-07:00

Here I've hidden the faces to protect our fun-loving family from offending those easily-offended.

The penis has been good to Castelmola and nearby Taormina. In fact, gay photographer Wilhem Von Gloeden is largely responsible for putting these destinations on the map. His celebrated and award-winning photographs of nude Sicilian boys with large penises in the early 1900's helped to draw celebrities, artists and dignitaries from all over the world. Here's more about him - http://vongloedengayhistory.free.fr/

Surprise Matt, You're 34!

2008-03-19T16:12:00.000-07:00

Surprise parties are a lot of work. It's not the labor involved that's taxing. It's not messing up and blowing the surprise and lying successfully repeatedly!!!

It truly was a team effort to pull this off. We all did what we were good at.

Rob assembled.... the grill and carted the bombola and hung the lights and delivered the birthday boy.

Chad served...

Kendra shopped...

Surprise Matt, You're 34!

2008-03-19T16:09:00.000-07:00

Onorio cooked...

Kelly championed the beer run...

And the rest of us partied...

A leisurely afternoon in Sicily!

2008-03-19T15:26:00.000-07:00

Nothing beats good food and good friends!!!

A leisurely afternoon in Sicily!

2008-03-19T15:22:00.000-07:00

That'd be Christine's husband spoon feeding Kelly's husband.

That'd be Thomas' wife whisperin' sweet nothins' to my husband.

That'd be Chad's wife about to make herself a food baby!